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How Copyright Influences the World of Designer Apparel


— July 31, 2024

Fashion design protection is complex. It is important to note what can and can’t be copyrighted to avoid lawsuits in the future.


High fashion is where designers create unique and creative clothing and accessories. These designs are very artistic and unique and set new trends in the fashion world. One main problem is that other brands copy these designs without giving any credit.

This raises a question: Can copyright laws protect designer pieces from being copied? And this is quite complex. 

Fashion designs include many different elements. These can range from sketches and special colors to how clothes are cut and made. They also include pictures of clothes and patterns on fabric. Each of these parts might have different rules regarding copyright protection. It’s a complicated issue in the fashion industry but an important one to discuss. 

Understanding copyright protection in fashion design

Copyright usually protects things like books, music, or art. However, copyright law doesn’t fully protect fashion designs in the United States. Fashion design is different because clothes are both creative and practical. This makes it hard to decide what parts of a design can be protected.

Copyright protects how an idea is shown, not the idea itself. So, if you’re getting a suit alteration made, then it is not subject to copyright unless there are unique patterns on it that are protected by copyright. 

What can and can’t be copyrighted?

Fashion designers can protect some parts of their work through copyright, but only some things.

What can be copyrighted?

  1. Graphic designs: Graphic designs with prints on the surface of fashion items are protected, just like artworks on paper. They only need to show a small amount of originality.
  2. Textile designs: You can get the copyright if you create a creative pattern to print on fabrics, as long as it’s your design and not just a basic repeat.
  3. Logos: These can be protected if they’re creative and original. However, simple logos with common shapes or letters might not qualify.

What can’t be copyrighted?

  1. Colors: You can’t copyright a color or color scheme. This means a designer can’t stop others from using the same color palette. However, trademark law might offer some protection here.
  2. Cut and shape: Copyright doesn’t protect how clothes are cut and assembled. This means a dress’s basic shape or jacket’s cut can’t be copyrighted. The U.S. Supreme Court has stated that copyright doesn’t stop anyone from making clothing with the same shape and dimensions. However, design patents might be an option for protecting unique cuts or shapes.

Famous fashion copyright lawsuits

Fashion copyright cases can be complex and often highlight the challenges of protecting designs in the industry. Here are three important examples that show how courts have handled these issues.

Christian Louboutin vs. Yves Saint Laurent

Christian Louboutin is famous for shoes with red soles. In 2011, they sued Yves Saint Laurent for making shoes with red soles. After a long legal fight, the court said Louboutin could trademark red soles, but only if the rest of the shoe was a different color. This shows that very specific design elements can sometimes be protected.

Gucci vs. Forever 21

In 2017, Gucci, a luxury brand, sued Forever 21, a cheaper clothing store. Gucci said Forever 21 copied its green-red-green stripe design, which Gucci claimed was an important part of its brand. This case shows how hard it is for expensive brands to protect their designs from being copied by cheaper brands.

Céline vs. Forever 21

Also in 2017, Céline, another luxury brand, sued Forever 21. They said Forever 21 copied designs from their bags and clothes, like where zippers and pockets were placed. However, this case showed that getting copyright protection for basic parts of fashion design is hard. Courts usually don’t protect things like where pockets go on clothes.

5 ways to protect your designs

Racks of clothing in shop; image via Clark Street Mercantile, via Unsplash.com.
Racks of clothing in shop; image via Clark Street Mercantile, via Unsplash.com.

Fashion designers have legal options to protect their creative work, each with its benefits and limitations.

1. Copyright

Copyright automatically protects original fashion designs, including patterns, graphics, and artistic elements like words on clothes. Designers should keep records of their work during lawsuits to support copyright claims.

2. Registered designs

Registering a design can protect a product’s appearance, shape, color, and surface design. In Europe, registered designs must be new and unique. In the UK, this is good for protecting patterns and prints.

3. Unregistered designs

In the UK and EU, unregistered design rights can protect clothing shapes that can’t be registered. This works for clothes with special features or unusual shapes. However, the only limitation is that it doesn’t protect surface designs.

4. Trademarks

Trademarks protect brand names, logos, and other brand elements. Registering a trademark lets designers take legal action against copiers, use the ® symbol, and allow others to use their mark.

5. Design patent

In the U.S., design patents can protect how a fashion item looks if it’s new and not just functional. However, most clothing designs are often seen as too functional for patents.

Summing up

Fashion design protection is complex. It is important to note what can and can’t be copyrighted to avoid lawsuits in the future. While there are some legal options available, there’s no perfect solution. 

As we move forward, the fashion industry continues to balance innovation without killing designers’ creativity. Understanding these complexities can help designers make informed choices about their creations.

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